Celery arrived only recently in my gardens, but has earned a spot of high regard. For the first few decades, I focused on more utilitarian crops, potatoes, corn, tomatoes, squash and greens of all sorts. But a decade ago I began growing celery from seed, starting it indoors in late winter. Its culinary qualities rank it high on the list of cultivars that are fundamentally different fresh from the garden, rather than from the grocery shelves.

Growing pesticide-free celery is another big draw. The plant is roughly 95 percent water, and readily absorbs and retains toxins. It is on the Environmental Working Group’s Dirty Dozen list, 12 soft skinned foods that absorb the most pesticides, just one more reason for home grown.

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