The rapid growth characterizing the dining scene in Portland these past few years has been met with mixed opinion. For every major market listicle gushing about where you should be downing oysters this month, there are at least a handful of disenfranchised Portlanders lamenting the days when a sandwich and a beer didn’t cost $22 or require a two-hour wait to enjoy. And they’d be right to feel this way — these places are disappearing not just here, but in cities across the country similarly propped up by the latest dining trends and flavors of the week.

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French onion soup

This is one of many reasons to be grateful for the persistence of Bonobo. Now in its 11th year, the West End staple on the corner of Pine and Brackett still churns out an impressive array of wood-fired pizzas seven nights a week, with a cozy neighborhood atmosphere and an approachable price point to boot. It is, in a way, a reminder of what things used to be like around here.

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Ocean (left half) and Gruyere (right half) pizzas

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Taleggio (left half) and The Farm (right half) pizzas