Emilitsa revival: Greece right here in our own backyard

 

Emilitsa on Congress in in the process of a culinary makeover, and that’s good for all of us. This splendid Greek restaurant has been a part of Portland’s dining scene for six years. I have enjoyed eating at Emilitsa since the day after I arrived here from Brooklyn. Though I’m not Greek, I believe my ancestors might be — what else could explain the “Papa” in my last name? In Greece, family is everything; very similar to the Italian culture I was raised in.

Indeed, it was a family member who inspired the name for the restaurant on Congress Street downtown. Owners John and Demo Regas, who named the restaurant after their mom, Emilitsa, grew up in an atmosphere dominated by wholesome and good food; be it their father’s restaurant Café, or their mother’s nostalgic kitchen. George, John and Demos’ father, was dead set on assimilating to the ways of America, as it was and is with many immigrant families. He served meatloaf and turkey sandwiches and insisted that only English be spoken. Alternatively, Emilitsa was a wonderful cook and she focused on traditional Greek food. Diners are fortunate to experience generations of Greek cuisine at Emilitsa today, and it’s paid off for its owners. Chef Demo Regas has been nominated for a James Beard Best Chef Award on two occasions. The restaurant has been featured in several respected publications including Downeast, the Portland Press Herald, Maine Home & Design magazine, to name a few. But with such a fabulous reputation, what could possibly be new?