Last Thursday I was delighted to find gorgeous poblano peppers at Andrew’s Farm stand at the Yarmouth Farmers’ Market. Shining with earthly energy, they reminded me something that a Mexican chef once taught me: September through November is the best time of year to cook chiles en nogada. It’s a Mexican classic: deep fried poblano chili peppers stuffed with pork, thyme, apple, and plantains, and topped with walnut cream sauce, fresh parsley, and pomegranate.

I learned how to make this unique dish from Yazmin Saraya, the pastry chef of Five Fifty-Five. She grew up and went to cooking school in Mexico City, before getting the itch to explore other cultures. She worked in Spain, Colorado, and Mexico before joining the vibrant food scene in Portland, Maine. She said that chiles en nogada is up there with her favorite foods from Mexico, along with fried plantains with sour cream and sugar, and candied mango with chili. Mexicans look forward to cooking and eating chiles en nogada in the fall when pomegranates come in season.