Despite a looming presence of questionable new construction in every corner of the city, 2017 was actually a rather good year for historical architecture in Portland’s West End neighborhood. Residents nostalgic for a touch of the “Old Portland" found solace in the reopening of the Roma Cafe at 769 Congress St. last August after nearly nine years of dormancy. Just two months later would bring the Francis — a boutique hotel — to the historic Mellen E. Bolster House at 747 Congress St., and with it, Bolster, Snow & Co.

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Scallop Crudo

Located adjacent to a pleasant lounge area on the first floor of the Francis (complete with roaring fireplace and separate bar), Bolster, Snow & Co. serves modern, seasonal American cuisine not unlike what might be found at Chez Panisse or The French Laundry. It makes sense, given that Chef Nick Verdisco comes to Portland from New York’s Inn at Pound Ridge by Jean Georges — a restored 1833 home-turned-restaurant in Westchester County, spearheaded by one of the world’s most well-known chefs.

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Lamb dish at Bolster, Snow & Co.

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Lemon Eclair at Bolster, Snow & Co.